What’s the Point of Puppyhood?

Puppies, like children, are growing psychologically and emotionally, as
well as physically.  What they learn when they are young will, in large
part, become a part of their adult behavior.  For this reason the
importance of early experiences and early learning cannot be
emphasized too much.

Dogs, in a manner similar to people, pass through distinct phases in
their psychological development.  At certain times a puppy is uniquely
sensitive to certain influences and experiences, and for this reason
psychologists refer to these phases as 'critical periods'.  Understanding
the phases, and the impact of certain experiences during those phases,
will help you to handle behavior during those periods, and  will allow
you to shape your puppy into the companion you desire.  

Puppy Toddler Period, or Canine Socialization
Period (3 - 6 weeks of age)   This phase is the point at which the
puppies realize the world is larger than the end of their noses!  They
begin crawling around and exploring their environment.  Vision and
hearing is becoming more developed so they can learn about their
environment and their litter mates. They begin the process of learning
to behave like dogs.  They observe mom and play with litter mates
then they try out different body postures and behaviors, gradually
learning what effect each of these has on others. They attempt
howling and barking and wrestling, they learn what happens when
they bite another puppy, and learn what it is like when bitten.  This is
the basis for social relationships in the pack. Around five weeks of
age, just about the time weaning begins, the mother teaches her
puppies to be submissive to her as the pack leader.  When necessary,
she will growl or snap at them as a form of discipline.   So this is a
critical period for learning to accept discipline from a pack leader.  If
this phase is shortchanged, and the pup is removed from the litter too
early, its later training will be much more difficult.  A puppy may even
grow up to be aggressive with other dogs because it never learned the
rules at this stage of development! This is the main reason that 7
weeks is considered the absolute minimum age to remove a pup from
it’s mom and litter mates.

Human Socialization Period (7 - 12 weeks of age) In this
period the puppy is a learning machine.  Everything they experience
will be later integrated into their personality.  This period, more than
any other is one where every event has a lasting impact.  Every
experience is a learning experience, whether it is intended that way or
not; good habits can be learned or bad habits established. Your puppy
will begin to expand its idea of ‘pack’ from its mom and litter mates, to
the humans around her as well. Your puppy has just finished learning
how to respect Mom, the canine pack leader. Now that she has left
mom, she will need YOU to be the new pack leader.   The pup will be
very anxious to please you, and will learn what rules you want him to
follow.  This is the best time to do that!  Things that are cute in a
puppy, like growling, biting and jumping, are not so cute in an adult.
NOW is the time to establish the ground rules regarding those
behaviors.  Corrections should be consistent and non-punitive;
correction does not mean punishment. If a pup is chewing on
something unauthorized, take it away and substitute an appropriate
choice, rather than yelling at her.  This is also the period in which your
puppy will learn to find new situations either scary or exciting.  How
he learns to feel about new situations depends upon him being
exposed to them many, many times, but in a secure environment.  
Taking your puppy lots of places, meeting lots of different kinds of
people, and making it FUN, will insure that he is flexible and happy in
meeting new situations in the future.  This is a challenge, as full
immunization against Parvo virus is not possible until 16 weeks of
age. Until she is fully immunized, you should try to expose your pup
to as many new situations and people as possible, while avoiding
places where lots of dogs frequent. Playgrounds and shopping centers
that do not have pet stores are a good start.  Frequent grooming
sessions at this point will insure that your pup learns to allow
brushing, ear cleaning and nail trimming without a struggle.

What should I do in this stage?
Expose your puppy to new situations and people
Be consistent in correcting undesirable behaviors
Groom frequently (hair, nails, ears) so it becomes routine
Provide stimulating and fun toys
Teach 'sit'
Begin working on the 'come' command by playing a
game where people take turns calling the pup,
and the pups gets a treat when she arrives

First Fear Imprint Period (8 - 11 weeks of age) This period
partly overlaps the Human Socialization Period. During this
time, any scary or  painful experiences will leave a greater impression
than if it had occurred at another time.  Trips to the veterinarian, if
frightening, can cause a lifelong fear of vets, for example.  A scary car
ride can cause anxiety tied to cars that can be very difficult to reverse.
If such events are necessary, and of course they are, try to make them
as fun as possible, with lots of playing and treats.

What should I do in this stage?
Make new experiences fun...lots of play and treats
If possible, avoid situations that might be scary

Seniority Classification Period, or Ranking Period
(12-16 weeks of age) During this period your puppy will begin to
challenge your authority, to see if you will maintain your position as
leader of your pack.  In a wild pack, this is necessary, as sometimes
old pack leaders need to be replaced!  You do not want your puppy to
get the idea he can replace you as pack leader, however, so you need
to show the dog, in her language, who is pack leader. Ways to display
leadership to your dog are:

Make sure you eat first, in front of your dog, before feeding her.  Pack
leaders eat first!

Make your dog sit before going through any door, then you go
through first.  Again, pack leaders go first!        

Make your dog sit for everything!  Sit for a treat, sit to be petted, sit to
be given a toy, sit for no reason.  This reinforces that what you say,
goes.

Do ‘puppy-pushups’ at random times, just to show he needs to follow
your wishes.  This consists of the commands ‘Sit, down, sit, down’
several times in succession.

Allow him on the furniture only at your invitation (if you allow him on
the furniture at all) and never allow him to sleep on your bed.  In a
wild pack, the pack leader gets the highest and most coveted resting
place!

Try a day or 2 of tethering.  This consists of attaching your dog’s leash
to your belt, so she has to go everywhere and do everything with
you.  Do not talk to your dog or pet her, just require her to move with
you as you go about your activities.  This is especially effective if a
pup is trying to dominate a child.  Having the pup tethered to the child
tells him in no uncertain terms who gets to make the decisions!

Behaviors such as nipping and grabbing the leash usually reach a peak
in this period, and are attempts at dominance.  They should not be
tolerated, and games which encourage them should be avoided, or
strictly regulated.  Tug of war is acceptable ONLY if you initiate the
game AND end it by winning EVERY TIME.  Children should not be
allowed to play tug of war as it cannot be assured they will do this,
and you do not want the puppy getting the idea they can dominate a
child.  The pups mouth should not ever be allowed to touch any part
of a person’s body.  A command such as ‘No bite’ or ‘No’ should be
chosen and consistently applied.

What should I do in this stage?
Establish leadership (see above)
Lots of exercise
Enroll in puppy training classes
Continue to be consistent in enforcing rules

Flight Instinct Period (4 - 8 months of age) This stage is the
beginning of independence.  Even puppies that have always stayed
close to their owners, or have come when called, will fail to do so. It is
not uncommon for them to even bolt in an opposite direction. Puppies
in an unconfined area should always remain tied to a long leash or line
until they will come reliably.  Puppies should never be allowed off
leash UNLESS they are in a confined area, and even in a confined area
you don’t want to chase a puppy that is refusing to come.  So what is
to be done when your puppy bolts?  The first steps are actually taken
BEFORE this stage arrives.  Play games where you call the puppy
repeatedly, and treat when she comes.  This can even be done in the
house, with people stationed far apart or on different floors, taking
turns calling the pup and treating.  And work hard on the ‘Sit’
command, spontaneously having the pup sit at unexpected times, then
treating.  Many times a pup that will not come when called will sit
when commanded, and you can walk up and clip on the leash.

What should I do in this stage?
Have your puppy neutered or spayed to prepare for the next stage
Continue to be consistent in enforcing rules
Keep puppy on a leash at all times, unless in a confined area
Continue to work on 'Sit' and 'Come'

Adolescence Period (5 - 18 months of age) This age range is
wide, as it sometimes occurs early in small dogs and later in larger,
more slow to mature, breeds.  Behaviors related to gender usually
appear at this age, with males beginning to lift their legs and mark,
and females may go into heat. Males, with their interest in determining
territory and finding a mate, may become very unruly.  Females may
become pregnant.  For these reasons it is VERY important your pup be
desexed before this stage begins.  Smaller breeds mature physically
much sooner, and waiting until 6 months can be too late. Even in
dogs neutered before this stage begins, adolescence is a challenge,
and people are often surprised to find their meek little puppy has a
mind of it’s own. The trick to surviving your dog’s adolescence is to go
back to basics. Treat your pup as though she were 8-12 weeks old
again! Increase the amount of exercise and decrease the amount of
freedom provided.  Assert dominance and your place as pack leader at
every opportunity.  Even with it’s challenges, this stage can be
amusing and fun.  Dogs of this age are full of energy and puppy
exuberance.  Along with increasing the amount of exercise your pup
gets, challenging him mentally with new games and new training can
be satisfying for both of you, and is a good way to channel that
energy.  Most of all, remember that all dogs go through this stage,
and you will get through it.  Your sweet and well-behaved companion
waits at the other end!

What should I do in this stage?
Spay or neuter your puppy if you have not already done so
Establish leadership (see above)
Lots of exercise
Enroll in more training classes
Continue to be consistent in enforcing rules, restrict freedom if
necessary
Teach new games and provide interesting toys to challenge your pup
mentally

Second Fear Imprint Period (6 - 14 months of age) This
fear imprint period, as with the first one, overlaps with another stage.  
This period is less distinct and does not occur recognizably in all
dogs.  But if it happens in yours you will know it!  It is almost looks
like shyness, where a dog that formerly would investigate new
situations becomes fearful of them.  The best response is to be
patient, but not reassure or force him.  Forcing will scare him and
reassuring him may give him the idea there is really something to be
afraid of!  Simply introducing him to the situation and rewarding and
treating when he does explore is the best option.

What should I do in this stage?
Continue to expose her to new situations.
Respond to fearfulness in a cheerful and matter-of-fact way, with        
treats and  play


Mature Adulthood (1 - 4 years of age) Again, this may occur
earlier in smaller breeds, later in larger breeds.  As your dog reaches
maturity, he may become more assertive and confident.  She may
begin defending territory by barking at strangers or barking when
someone comes to the door.  You need to be consistent and clear in
defining where this behavior is appropriate and where it is not.  For
example, you may want her to bark when someone enters your
property, but not at a stranger that walks by you on the street.  Teach
him that someone you invite into your home is acceptable by
establishing a routine of allowing him a few barks, then requiring him
to stop barking after your guest enters.  

The same is true of interactions with other dogs.  Begin by having him
meet one, or at most two, dogs at a time, and praise him when his
behavior is friendly and appropriate.  Gradually move on to busier
venues such as dog parks.  It is important to be aware that adults of
the same sex, even when neutered, will attempt to establish
dominance.  As long as it is done playfully, it is appropriate.  But you
will need to become aware of signs that it is becoming aggressive.  
Aggressive postures include a very stiff-legged walk, up on their toes,
tail wags that are very short and brisk, and a facial expression that is
intense, usually with the head lowered.  These are usually seen as the
dogs circle one another.  Play should be halted if these signs are
evident, as a fight may be imminent.  Be sure to watch the other dogs
for these signals also, as it may not be your dog that starts the
fight!       

In addition to establishing dominance with other dogs, your dog may
again attempt to assert dominance over you, or over children in the
family.  It is especially important to reinforce your dog’s position at
the bottom of the pack, below you and your children.  See the
‘Seniority Classification Period’ for reminders of how to do this.

Finally, the usefulness of professional advice and input cannot be
overemphasized.  Training classes are almost always worth the time
and money!  Good dog trainers usually have a wealth of experiences
to draw on, and the time you spend working with your dog forms a
bond like no other.


What should I do in this stage?
More training classes!
Begin introductions to multiple dogs with only one or two dogs at a
time
Learn to recognize the behavioral signals that mean a fight may be
coming
Set rules about territory and barking and stick to them
Re-establish leadership (see details above)

Author:Helene Roussi



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